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Archive for the ‘Food’ Category

06.08

2008

West meets South

June 2008 cover

My travel piece about the Seattle food scene earned a headline on the cover of this month’s Charleston Magazine. The cover image is by Peter Frank Edwards, who besides shooting the Seattle piece and wine piece, below, has 18 pages of very cool location fashion in this issue. (In pre-production, I helped with props and locations, so I’m particularly proud of this shoot.) The Seattle piece ran 12 pages strong, with a nice layout and a sidebar to debunk how much it rains… much of the East coast actually gets more inches of rain each year, it’s just that Seattle has many more cloudy days.

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The opening paragraphs of “Seattle by the Forkful”…

Within an hour after our plane flew over the still snow-capped Cascades and touched down in Seattle, we were walking down the steep streets to Pike Place Market to skirt around the men tossing fish up to be weighed, wrapped and iced for customers (we’d watch that spectacle more intently later on), and followed the walkway to Place Pigalle, a narrow café nearly hidden on the backside of the landmark market. From a table by a window we watched a rainstorm bring a wash of gray across Puget Sound and drank a couple glasses of Washington state red – I don’t remember the vineyard, but know if was fine, perfect even, with a plate of smoked tomatoes and Alaskan halibut, a vinegary red-skinned potato salad. (Set so far up the coast, Alaskan fish is considered local/regional here, with Seattle marinas lined with “Deadliest Catch” style boats and stacks of huge iron crab pots.)

This was a good start. I’ve spent time in San Francisco and visited Vancouver, but had never been to this Northwest city where the rugged mountain-meets-the-sea landscape has given rise to Bill Gates and his Microsoft, to Jimi Hendrix and his psychedelic guitar riffs, to the coffee world domination of Starbucks. What a mix, a draw. So on a late winter Friday, we’d made the eight-hours of flights (one connection), not only for the Pacific scenery and the cool vibe, but to taste some of the freshest food to be found in the country these days. At least that’s what I’d heard… that up in Seattle the farm-and-sea-to-table scene is tremendously rich, sometimes trendsetting. Not to be overwhelmed by all the possible sights and activities in such a city, it seemed the thing to do in Seattle was to allow food be our guide. We’d let the smell of coffee and the clink of wine glasses lead us through this unfamiliar city that’s smaller in land size than Charleston, but with even more water in its boundaries – it’s dotted with islands, criss-crossed with ferries – and is home to seven times as many people…

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– Sandy Lang, June 2008

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Food, In print/published, Travel, Wine

04.22

2008

Seattle-ing

I’ve got a new travel piece in the works, “The days we ate Seattle,” and thought I’d post a few of Peter Frank’s images. This was a trip we took last month, five days of coffee and Washington state wines, of trying restaurants that cook with local ingredients (red skinned potatoes, steelhead and halibut, leeks, ciders, cracked wheat, greens), such as the 30 to 40-seat Tilth with the young female chef, who since we ate there is up for a James Beard. We visited farmers’ markets for samples of soup and cheese, bread and milk, and then went out to a couple of the farms to see where the food was produced.

Fauntleroy ferryVashon

We boarded ferries, and we tried restaurants. There were a lot of high points, including our stop at The Monkey Tree on Vashon Island, a vegetarian cafe and bakery that serves huge portion open face sandwiches on fresh bread, bundt cakes, beet soups, much more. There were big mixing bowls on the countertops and flour in the air. You get to Vashon by ferry ride… a dreamy boat passage the day we went, on smooth water with sunlight at nice angles in window-lined passenger areas of molded aqua seats. We stopped, too, at the Loki salmon boat (west wall, Fishermen’s Terminal) to talk fish stories. And we ordered our toasted crumpets and jam in the cozy Crumpet Shop, watching the batter poured and baked.

crumpet makingLoki salmon

I’d Seattle again anytime – the farm-and-sea-to-table scene is very cool to see, delicious to taste. Our article is due to be published in June in Charleston Magazine.

– Sandy Lang, April 2008

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Food, Travel

Bowens1Bowens2

Okay, this shellfish report is closer to home. We went out to Bowens Island last week, for some oysters just down the causeway. Even though fire burned the main building last year, Bowens Island looks about the same… graffitti, steaming pots, white plastic chairs, and plywood tables with holes in the center for dropping shells. It would be a trick for flames to take away that kind of cinderblock-built magic. Owner Robert Barber says he’ll rebuild with green practices, possibly with LEED certification. “I wouldn’t have put in air conditioning anyway. We almost always have a great breeze.”

We ordered trays of steamed oysters, the ones that Robert’s crew get from oyster beds nearby… some within view. These are clusters of mostly small oysters, known for a good mud/earth taste, along with the brine. I prefer them. Towels and oyster knives are provided. Robert suggested a plate of fried shrimp, so we got one of those too. And we drank a couple beers, even though the four people next to us said they’d wait to go back to Folly Beach for beer, where the cans are kept colder.

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– Sandy Lang, March 2008.  Images by Peter Frank Edwards.

 

Oyster BarOyster Bar plate

From swiveling stools at the Oyster Bar at Grand Central Station, we made our choices. It was Monday, just after 5:00, and crates of ice and oysters were stacked in front of us, cups of horseradish lined the bar. Tiles line the ceiling in this dining room under the Main Concourse, worn smooth and gleaming, almost like shells themselves.

Only three others sat along the bar. The woman next to me ordered a plate of cherrystones, meaty and caramel-colored. She’d stopped at the bar, she explained, on her way to a political lecture at Columbia University. With reddish-gray hair, she looked to be in her 60s or 70s, and talked of her support of Hillary Clinton, of her quandry about whether or not to take a Gulf Coast cruise before winter ends. When the waiter walked by, she waved at her plate with her fork. “This clam is a funny color,” she told him, pointing. He took it away, replacing the suspect clam with another. “I always order cherrystones because they don’t cost very much,” she tells me, and finished the last of her gooey, ice-chilled clams. “I really don’t know if they’re the best ones.”

We’d ordered tap beer, served cold in tall glasses. A man in an apron shucked oysters deftly at a counter, and another man – tall and slim with drawn face – stood ready to heat oyster stew over a gas flame. We should get chowder sometime, we told each other. Then our ice-bed plates arrived well-arranged, as swiftly as we’d order them, always with cocktail sauce, lemons, paper cups of vinegar. Long Island Blue Point oysters we’d try, along with a half dozen of Northumberland from Nova Scotia, and a half dozen of Yaquina from Oregon. With the tiny fork I’d add horseradish and pull the oyster loose from the shell, then tip them back to eat. Some fell out easily. For others I’d turn the rough shell in my hand to try again. The cherrystone woman eventually held up her credit card and asked for a bill, then slipped her arms into her dark mink coat, readying to go. More men and couples were walking past by then, toward the saloon in the next room. In no hurry, we’d catch the downtown train a little later.

– Sandy Lang, February 2008

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Food, Oysters, Travel

01.27

2008

Miami Times

 

Hands-free volleyball

We’re in Miami for a few days, doing research for an upcoming story. Everywhere are women in high heels and looks-impossible-to-sit-down short skirts. Last night on Washington Ave. I saw a young woman grabbing tight to her boyfriend’s arm as she toddled painfully into a shoe store. Inside, she immediately plunked down on a bench and pointed to a rack of flat sandals.

Days, we’ve found Espanola Way, the beach at South Pointe and the secret patio gardens behind our hotel to be our favorite spots, away from the mad Lummus Park/Ocean Drive crowds (although the neon line-up there is pretty great at dusk). Instead of a car rental, we’ve been pedaling rented, fat-tired bicycles, which can often be a challenge in the sea of convertibles and buzzing scooters, many with cell phones at their ears. Best meals so far have been the coconut red curry lentils at Creek 28 and the cafe con leche and guava pastry at the Tropical Beach Cafe. We need to go back to Joe’s Stone Crabs for some claws… they’re kept on ice in the shiny stainless steel and glass cases, and once ordered, men in white aprons give each one a quick strike with a wooden mallet to prep the shells for ease of cracking into sweet claw meat.

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– Sandy Lang, January 2008

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Food, Travel

Driving down through Colleton County on the way to Ehrhardt, SC, an armadillo popped up on the side of the road. It was Hwy. 641, a two-laner. Then at a field of winter collards, the greens rows ended at the parking lot of Rizers’ Pork and Produce. Philip Rizer sells pork, bacon, pork skins and fresh vegetables there, and tells us that since last summer, every Saturday night they’ve stayed open late for “Steak Night.” At first, the dinner was drawing up to 75 to 85 people a week for 16-ounce grilled steaks and pork chops, fried onions, lemon pie and iced tea. Then late August came around, along with the start of the hunting seasons, college football. Crowds dropped to about 35 people each Saturday. But Philip’s not worried, says the dinners should heat up again soon.

rizer22.jpgEstill oaks

Just outside of Estill, S.C. we drove under, and then got out to walk in the deepest oak allee I’ve ever seen. There was no house.

PFE pecan

More trees… here’s one I took of Peter Frank in a pecan grove near Ehrhardt, about 7 a.m. Everyone’s been talking about how it was a terrific pecan crop this year. “Too good,” one farmer said, out of buyers for his crop. We also stopped to pick sweet potatoes in a sandy field, paid $3 to borrow and fill a 5-gallon bucket. The Interstate Restaurant in Ulmer closed years ago, after I-95 took the North-South traffic a new route further inland. I’m writing up this road trip for an upcoming travel piece in Charleston Magazine, www.charlestonmag.com.

sweetpotatoesINTERSTATE RESTAURANT2

– Sandy Lang, December 2007

little ovencabin Thanksgiving spread

Up at the Maine cabin for Thanksgiving, we put our new (since summer) Sears-bought, 20-inch wide gas oven to the test. It’s a tiny workhorse. We cooked on all burners and both oven racks, from turkey to stuffing to clams. (Earlier in the week, I’d called my clam guy at Young’s Oyster Pound and asked him about getting some cherrystones or littlenecks… of course they had plenty of steamers on hand but none of thick shells. He’d have to dig up my order.) Near a wood stove and with icy mist falling outside, I’d decided I needed to make clams like I watched my Uncle Chic do one Thanksgiving. He’s the one who told me he was “the best quahog diver in New England” when he was young, but then he was known for telling incredible sea stories.

The rest of our menu was, as follows: roast fresh turkey (a free-ranger), mashed potatoes made with those Aroostook County potatoes with papery-thin skins, creamed fresh spinach, cranberry sauce, stuffing, gravy, and a tray of roasted parsnips, beets, rutabaga and carrots.

We served everything on the cabin’s motley collection of plates and pans, along with a few things we bought at All Small Antiques in Searsport just before it closed Wednesday afternoon. The curly-headed, grandmotherly clerk there told us she wouldn’t be serving turkey this year. Instead she’d be cooking an eye roast the next day for her family, she said. “Why? I’ll tell you why. For the simple reason that they’ve had too much turkey already.”

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– Sandy Lang, November 2007

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Food, Maine days

06.15

2007

Diving for big bugs

Thought I’d share an excerpt from an upcoming article… had a great day on the water, watching Mike and Lou dive, and then seeing them cook everything. Yes, Lou has his own outdoor pizza oven. The complete story, recipes and images are to be in the July issue of Charleston Magazine, www.charlestonmag.com.

Mike, Louspiny lobster

Just after dawn on a calm-water Sunday, after cruising about 29 miles out from the Folly River, Luigi Scognamiglio (”Captain Lou”), cuts the engine to a purr. “Oh, it’s good vis Mikey,” he says. “It’s very good vis’.”

The 21-foot, center-console catamaran has made it to the shallower water above an offshore reef. And yes, the visibility is good. The ocean here is a clear, Gulf Stream blue, and the boat is nearing a favorite dive spot that’s known to be teeming with fish. (A mix of experience and GPS coordinates are their guides.)

Two bottlenose dolphins appear, braiding through each other in water that channels off the bow. Everyone thinks this is a good sign, and Michael Scognamiglio, Lou’s son, is on the deck prepping a dive marker, getting it ready to throw. When he tosses the floating buoy, its small anchor sinks to the bottom, pulling a white rope line that’s visible for at least 30 feet below.

“This is going to be a very, very good dive,” Lou predicts. The captain has been watching the surface, and checking the boat’s sonar which is showing schools in the ledges below. “Now let’s get underneath and look for bugs,” he says.

dive

There has already been much talk about lobster on the ride out… with father and son hoping the trip wouldn’t end up being just puffery and old sea stories. They were counting on finding good-sized fish and spiny lobster on this rough patch in the ocean floor. And they brought along fellow diver Rodney Fazilat to see what they could see and catch down below. The Scognamiglios’ confidence level was pretty high… the plan was that some of what they would find 95-110 feet below the surface they’d bring back to cook at a dinner party that night, a gathering that Michael had been calling an “Italian Folly Feast…”

cooked loboven

– Sandy Lang, June 2007

Went out on the Folly River on a cold Saturday a couple weeks ago, to hit the beds for some oysters.  We took our hammers, our crates.  The wind made the banks extra muddy. The oysters? Salty and perfect. We wash them of course, but you still get a little pluff, and from that mud comes flavor.

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– Sandy Lang, March 2007

Excerpt from a piece I wrote for Charleston Magazine, published as part of the “On the Road” series…

Maybe it doesn’t make much sense to drive all afternoon for a maraschino-red-tinted hot dog, just-seared on a flat-top grill and served with chili, thick-cut fries, and a tall cup of soda poured over flaky-crunchy ice. But every road trip needs a goal, and somehow the ad jingle of a 91-year-old middle Georgia hot dog joint – “I’d go a long way for a Nu-Way” – had kept us going for a couple hundred miles.

hotdog.jpg

The destination was Macon, Georgia that sunny Thursday – for some music, history and sightseeing, and of course, to check out the narrow linoleum and chrome Nu-Way Weiners store downtown on Cotton Avenue. This southern river and railroad crossroads is a place I’d often heard of, but hadn’t yet had the chance to know in person. It’s one of those legendary music cities of the South, with a Memphis-style mix of urban and rural scenery. So ripe for soulful music, it’s said that here – 80 miles south of Atlanta – that Otis Redding, James Brown and Little Richard made some of their best performances. When you hit Macon, the Second Street exit will take you right onto Martin Luther King, Jr. Blvd., crossing over the chocolate-milk looking Ocmulgee River and underneath railroad trestles as it leads into the downtown. Pretty soon you’ll see modern, hulking museum buildings to honor Georgia sports and music. (The next addition to the museum district will be huge new facilities for the Tubman African American Museum.) And you can stop into the Welcome Center at the base of Cherry Street, housed in a grand old train terminal. That’s where we went first, and where I picked up brochures and asked for directions to the Nu-Way. The desk worker said, “you should know they have a real different taste.”

Besides a cherry-pop red hot dog with chili (with a little grill grease, delicious), and a Coke with excellent soft-crunch ice at the Nu-Way counter, Macon really came to life when we found the music. Down on Cherry Street there’s a jazz supper club, where couples are seated at candlelit tables by a hostess and then served cocktails – and food if you like – while the live music plays. The night we were there, the Macon Blues Legends were onstage. Lead singer James Duncan told stories of the Macon music scene, sang “Dock of the Bay,” “Hound Dog,” “Mustang Sally,” and his own 1960s hit “Wet Pillow.” And before he finished his set, the smooth-voiced singer talked of the recent funeral of his friend James Brown.

“There were so many people lined up that I couldn’t get a seat until somebody sang this song,” he said. Then the band hit the first beats of “Sex Machine,” the supper club crowd went wild with shouts and dancing, and I couldn’t be happier that I’d finally made it to Macon.

– Sandy Lang, March 2007

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Food, Travel

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